Wine and Food March 2023 Report
Function No 368Guest Chef: Shane Freer and Liam Jones
Guest Speaker: Kevin Mitchell
Featured Winery: Kilikanoon
A celebration of the end of summer and start of the football season was the planned theme for the day. Members and guests arrived under a steady drizzle of rain which had transformed to clear skies by the end of lunch. Viva Melbourne’s weather reputation.
Other reputations were on display today; that of Executive Chef Shane Freer with his protégé Liam Jones. Shane briefly graced the Percy Beames Bar personally offering a selection of canapes featuring Yellowfin Tuna and pani puri togarashi shichimi tartare, blood orange & wasabi dressing; Berkshire pork belly with green mango slaw and palm sugar caramel and finally Heidi Gruyere Souffle with pickled zucchini, green tomato chutney and mint. This was accompanied by the Kilikanoon Vouvray Methode Traditionelle NV. A superb balance of flavours. The Vouvray had a lovely mouth feel and delicate acid profile that suited the canapes. Personally, I thought the Vouvray was well priced considering its pedigree and competitors.
Once seated in the Long Room, members and guests were presented with two distinctly different Rieslings. Kilikanoon Mort’s Reserve Riesling (2019) and the Kilikanoon Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling (2022). Each wine had its own characteristics; balancing a light sweetness against some age but both married harmoniously with the roasted King George whiting with spanner crab and pimento, Geraldton marrow broth and asparagus. The presentation of the entrée was imaginative and at once visually appealing.
Following entrée, Chair Michael Reidy introduced Kilikanoon founder Kevin Mitchell. Kevin walked through the whites and briefly surmised the history of his vineyard which opened in 1997.
Main was then served featuring Kilikanoon Shiraz Oracle (2016) and Kilikanoon Tregea Cabernet Sauvignon (2019). Main was Tournedos Rossini,¹ Veal Fillet with duck parfait brioche croute. Accompanied with baby roasted carrots, cauliflower gratin and sauce Perigueux.² The reds, to this author, displayed a finesse and style commensurate with fine new oak. A classic lunch for the ages, pink veal, cooked perfectly, with balanced reds in tow. Sublime. I resorted to soaking up the remaining sauce with my bread roll, behaviour usually reserved for home.
Moving onto the cheese course, after an interlude again by the Chair and Kilikanoon owner, the Organic Mountain Man washed rind with Reblochon style Geelong cheese, gluhwein-poached pear (mulled wine), fennel bark was served. Kilikanoon Ashton Mataro (2020) to accompany. The inaugural release of this wine, we feel honoured to have hosted it. It is the centennial year of this single block of Mataro, usually sold as part of a blend. Vintage was described as warm and dry for the second year in a row, but was handled well by the aged, dry grown vineyard.
Clearing skies signalled time for desert. Pastry Chef Jones excelled with caramel and raspberry tart with caramel mousse, raspberry whipped cremeux, (Crème Anglaise and Chocolate) almond brittle, raspberry and rosemary sorbet and fresh raspberries. A crisp and perfumed Kilikanoon Mort’s Block Cane Cut Riesling (2020) rounded out proceedings. A delightful end to the lunch and summer (of sorts).
- Beef Rossini, otherwise known as Tournedos Rossini is a popular steak dish that originated in France. The rich and decadent dish is made from filet mignon (or beef tournedos) first pan-fried in butter and then served on a crouton. More information.
- Perigueux: This rich, classic sauce is flavored with Madeira and pungent, earthy black truffles, which are a specialty of Périgueux, a city in the Perigord region of southwestern France. Julia Child recommended Sauce Périgueux for "filet of beef, fresh foie gras, veal, egg dishes, and timbales," all delicous ways to enjoy the luxury of truffles.
Michael Ellis
Committee, Wine & Food Master